Down Under Diary #5 · Fraser Island: Guided Adventure Tour, Dingos, & the Champagne Pools (with Video!)

G’Day and welcome back to the Down Under Diary! This blog is all about guided tours. Yes, we thought of it the same: being herded like sheep, crowds, name tags, and scheduled (bathroom) breaks on the minute. Not exactly the travel vibe we’d been chasing. But our two-day Fraser Island tour turned out to be one of the most unexpected and unforgettable travel experiences! And honestly, it’s the only way to properly explore the world’s largest sand island (unless you’re a trained 4WD pro with a permit and nerves of steel).

April 26, 11:00 · Lost in the Outback 🧭

What was supposed to be a short excursion to Rainbow Beach on the way from Noosa to Hervey Beach turned into a full-blown GPS betrayal. The GPS proudly led us on a ‘detour’ into the Aussie outback, far from the main road or the coastline, through dusty roads and cow pastures. With zero phone reception and increasing panic after two loops, we ended up pulling over near a tiny rural school and asking for directions. Eventually, we found our way back to civilization.

April 26, 13:00 · Rainbow Beach and Carlo Sand Blow 🌈

Rainbow Beach instantly lifted our spirits, surfer vibes, endless waves, and the sun we’d been chasing for days. We hiked up to the famous Carlo Sandblow, a massive sand dune that felt more like stepping into a desert than a beach town. And yes, we quickly found out why it’s called Sand Blow – the wind up there was wild, blasting sand into our hair, shoes, and backpacks. I’m still finding grains in the backpack two years later. After a short break at the surf club, we hit the road again. Then the warning light blinked: our camper needed AdBlue. None of us – nor the staff at the first petrol station (which was already 50 kilometers away) – knew what AdBlue even was (turns out it’s diesel exhaust fluid). And the next one? Closed. Fingers crossed for Hervey Bay…

April 27, 19:00 · Hervey Bay 

After more than two hours and 125 kilometers, we finally arrived in Hervey Bay – still with no AdBlue in the tank (even the gas station there was out). What was meant to be a quick detour to Rainbow Beach turned into a full-day adventure. We settled in for the night, as our two-day guided tour to Fraser Island would kick off early the next morning. Backpacks are packed and the alarms are set.

April 27, 07:00 · Ferry to Fraser Island (K’gari) ⛴️

The next morning, our Fraser Island tour almost began and ended in Hervey Bay, because we were running so late, we nearly missed the road tour bus to the harbor (breaking the Swiss stereotypes). Luckily, the bus waited while we sprinted towards it. At the harbor, we boarded the ferry to Fraser Island, also known by its traditional name K’gari, meaning ‘paradise’ in the Butchulla language. Sadly, no dolphins or whales joined us on the crossing, but the real adventure was waiting on the other side. Fraser Island is one of the most dangerous islands, thanks to strong currents, hungry dingos, and an ocean and jungle full of surprises.

April 27, 11:00 · Lake McKenzie 💦

As soon as we arrived on Fraser Island, we jumped onto the rugged 4WD bus (German-made, proudly noted by our tour guide) that would take us across the island. Our guide gave us the lowdown: wear seatbelts, don’t feed the dingos, and prepare for bumpy rides (yes, the roads were actually like on a roller coster ride). Just as we arrived at the first stop, so did a downpour. But Lake McKenzie, a stunning freshwater lake with white sand and crystal-clear water, didn’t disappoint us. The lake is perched above sea level, meaning it’s filled purely by rainwater. We exfoliated our legs, arms and faces with the sand like skincare influencers.

April 27, 13:00 · Jungle Walk & Island History 🌿

After lunch, we headed into the rainforest for a short jungle walk (on a suspiciously well-maintained boardwalk), surrounded by towering trees. As we strolled through the dense greenery, our guide shared more facts than we could remember, from the island’s deforestation history and role in train-building to darker chapters involving logging and exploitation. It was both humbling and fascinating to walk through nature that has endured so much and slowly reclaimed itself.

April 27, 15:00 · Caipirinhas in Lake Wabby 🐠🍹

The hike to Lake Wabby was hot, uphill, and super sandy. After the Carlo Sandblow the day before, we were kind of done with dunes. But the green lake nestled between the golden sand and the forest was totally worth it. I was the only one who braved the mysterious green tea tree water, while the others collapsed on their towels. Suddenly, Vanessa spotted ‘caipirinhas’ in the lake. I’ve never been out of the water so quickly. But fortunately, there were no piranhas, just harmless catfish.

April 27, 17:00 · Dingo Safety 🐕

We checked into our hotel for the night and let me tell you, after weeks in the campervan, those beds felt next level luxurious. But we chose sunset over a nap and made our way to the beach. Armed with official “dingo sticks”, we were ready for anything. Throughout the day, our guide had explained just how dangerous dingos can be, especially if you’re alone or carrying food. They might look cute, but they’re wild animals. Soon, we didn’t feel that secure anymore. Every rustle behind us suddenly sounded like a lurking dingo, and our imagination ran wild. Hyper-alert and slightly spooked, we headed back to the hotel, which is by the way is protected by not one, even not two, but three fences and a dingo-repelling sprinkler system.

April 28, 08:00 · Surprise Flight 🛩️

The next day, we drove along the 75 Mile Beach, which is not only a highway but also an airstrip. Yes, you read right, planes land on the beach. And just as we were processing that fact, a small aircraft touched down in front of us. But the real surprise came next: our guide casually mentioned we could book a spontaneous scenic flight over Fraser Island. Within seconds, Sabrina and Vanessa jumped at the chance. I, on the other hand, started weighing the options and overthinking the safety, sustainability and price (spontaneity isn’t exactly my strong suit, and I’ve been regretting it ever since). When the flight crew returned, they were absolutely glowing – apparently the views from above made everyone forget the bumpy bus ride and mild nausea in no time.

April 28, 08:00 · Dingo Sighting 🐕

While the others enjoyed Fraser Island from above, Simona and I stayed grounded (literally) and turned our attention to the beach. Suddenly, a lone male dingo trotted past our parked bus. We whispered excitedly behind the glass, trying not to scare him off. He looked so cute and fluffy, just for a cuddle, but everyone on the tour wisely stayed on the bus. After some time, the dingo disappeared into the bush, but his paw prints stayed behind.

April 28, 09:00 · SS Maheno Shipwreck & The Pinnacles 🚢

Next, we stopped at the eerie remains of the SS Maheno – a rusting shipwreck that looks like a movie set. It’s been stuck on the beach since a cyclone in 1935, and now it’s slowly being swallowed by the sand. We continued on to the Pinnacles, where layers of colorful sandstone form dramatic cliff faces that look like giant slices of rainbow cake. Then came the Red Canyon – a deep crack in the sand dunes with bright red and orange tones, formed by wind and water over time. But to be honest, at this point we were more excited about our snack break than yet another sandy formation after all the sand landmarks from the past days.

April 28, 11:00 · Champagne Pools 🍾🫧

Time for a well-earned swim at the Champagne Pools, which are natural rock pools in the north and the only safe spot on the island to swim in the ocean. Everywhere else, there’s danger is waiting in the form of sharks, jellyfish, or strong currents. Here, waves crash over the edge of the rocks, filling the pools with fizzy, bubbly water – like nature’s own jacuzzi, just with sea salt and a lot more chaos. We jumped in, got tossed around, and tried to dodge the sharp rocks.

April 28, 13:00 · Floating on Eli Creek 🛟

Next up was relaxation, but not without a short workout first. At Eli Creek, we had to walk upstream through the forest before we could float our way back down. We were expecting something like river rafting, so we left our phones behind, just to be safe. Turns out, it was more of a gentle, natural lazy river. No paddling needed, just drifting through crystal-clear water, surrounded by lush greenery. We loved it so much, we had to float down a second time. This time with our phones, to capture the moment and keep the memory. By that point, the tour bus looked like a total mess: sand everywhere, wet seats, and soggy towels stretched across to dry. We’d also lost count of how many times we had to pull on wet bikinis or wriggle out of damp clothes over the past two days.

April 28, 15:30 · Hugging trees in Pile Valley 🌳

By that point, we were more than ready to board the ferry and head back to the mainland – completely drained from the day’s adventures. But one last rainforest walk was still on the agenda: Pile Valley. After a bumpy drive, we stepped into this lush green forest, once even visited by the English royal family. The light filtered softly through the dense canopy, creating an almost mystical atmosphere. Among the tree species we met (and hugged), there was one we definitely won’t forget: the blackbutt tree – dark on one side and memorable for its name alone.

April 28, 16:30 · Final Realisation ⛽️

While waiting at the harbor, we spotted a leopard ray gliding through the water, a little wildlife gift before leaving the island. The ferry ride back was surprisingly peaceful, with the sun setting over the ocean in golden hues. After two long (but beautiful) days of being herded around the island, we arrived back at Hervey Bay. Where reality hit: the campervan still had an AdBlue issue waiting for us. But that was a problem for tomorrow. For now, we just wanted to sleep. By the way, we did find a gas station with AdBlue the next day – crisis solved!

Thanks for following along, cheers from Fraser Island and ’til next time in Cape Hillsborough!
Yours, Géraldine 👋🏻👩🏼‍🦱🐕

HIT THE ROAD TO CAPE HILLSBOROUGH