Not All Plant-Based Fabrics Are Sustainable—Here’s Why

Viscose, modal, rayon, and bamboo viscose are some of the most common materials found on clothing labels. But do you know what they actually are? Or how they compare?

Labels that mention “viscose” or “modal” often sound more sustainable than polyester. After all, they’re plant-based—right? The truth is more complex.

This post breaks down what rayon really is and how it differs across types.

And what about TENCEL™—often seen as the “good” version of rayon? We’ll go into more detail about how it’s made, why it’s different, and what to look for in a dedicated post coming soon.

What Is Rayon?

Rayon is an umbrella term for a group of semi-synthetic fibers made from regenerated cellulose. If you’ve seen viscose, modal, lyocell, or bamboo viscose on a label, they’re all different types of rayon—just made with slightly different raw materials or production methods.

Rayon is a semi-synthetic fiber made from regenerated cellulose. Cellulose is a natural polymer—meaning it’s made up of long, repeating chains of molecules—found in the cell walls of plants. It’s what gives structure to wood, cotton, and other plant fibers. In simple terms, it’s the tough, fibrous part of plants that can be turned into fabric.

Common rayon types include:

  • Viscose: The most widely used form, often labeled simply as “rayon.”
  • Modal: Made from beechwood, softer and more breathable than viscose.
  • Lyocell: A more sustainable version, often branded as TENCEL™, made in a closed-loop system.
  • Bamboo Viscose: Viscose made from bamboo pulp, not trees.

Though they differ slightly, all belong to the rayon family.

What Is Rayon Made From?

Most rayon is made from wood pulp sourced from eucalyptus, beech, pine, or spruce. These trees are commonly grown in monocultures, which can lead to:

  • Deforestation, including in endangered forests
  • Biodiversity loss
  • Opaque supply chains

Sourcing matters. Look for:

  • FSC® certification – Ensures wood comes from responsibly managed forests
  • CanopyStyle commitment – Brands that avoid high-risk or ancient forest sources

How It’s Made

A simplified version of the production process:

  1. Trees or bamboo are turned into wood chips
  2. Chips are pulped using chemicals like sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide
  3. Liquid pulp is extruded into fibers
  4. Fibers are washed, dried, and spun into yarn

Unless made in a closed-loop system (like TENCEL™), this process can release pollutants into the environment and expose workers to toxic substances.

Rayon vs. Polyester

Rayon is often viewed as the more sustainable choice, especially when compared to polyester—a synthetic fiber made from crude oil. Polyester is known for shedding microplastics when washed, which end up in oceans and waterways, affecting marine life and possibly human health.

Rayon seems more eco-friendly because:

  • Made from plant sources
  • Breathable and soft
  • Biodegradable (under the right conditions)

But there are issues:

  • Chemically intensive production
  • Less durable, prone to pilling
  • Can contribute to deforestation if not responsibly sourced

Polyester is more durable and easier to recycle, but it’s derived from fossil fuels and doesn’t biodegrade. Rayon has more potential only when certified and produced responsibly.

Label Decoder: What to Watch For

When you see these on a tag, here’s what they actually mean:

  • Viscose / Rayon = chemically treated wood pulp
  • Modal = refined rayon made from beech trees
  • TENCEL™ = lyocell/modal produced in a closed-loop system
  • Bamboo Viscose = viscose made from bamboo, not trees

Bottom Line

Rayon feels natural—but that doesn’t mean it’s sustainable. What matters is how it’s made and where it comes from. Certifications like FSC®, TENCEL™, and CanopyStyle can help you make more conscious choices.

Coming up next:

We’ll decode cotton labels—because “100% cotton” doesn’t always mean what you think.
We’ll also explore polyester in a future post—its link to microplastics, what recycled versions really solve, and why it’s so dominant in the fashion industry.
And yes, a deep dive into TENCEL™ is coming soon.

Your Turn:

Have you ever chosen clothing based on a label like “bamboo” or “modal”? What made you trust it? Drop your story or questions in the comments below.

 

wamarjan

I started this blog to help make fashion more understandable—one label at a time. There’s a lot of talk about “sustainability” in fashion, but it can be hard to know what’s actually true. My goal with this blog is to break down what clothes are really made of, how they’re produced, and what that means for people and the planet. I write for curious people who want to make more informed choices—but don’t want to be overwhelmed by technical terms or greenwashing. Through stories, facts, and simple visuals, I try to make the complex world of materials and certifications easier to navigate. This isn’t about being perfect. It’s about asking better questions, understanding what’s behind the tag, and learning how to shop with more awareness and intention.

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